Thursday, September 23, 2010

Liquid Connoisseurship: Wine and Coffee in East Austin

I don't know if it's a part of being settled or more about the lifestyle choices I make, but since moving to Austin I've been exposed to "connoisseurship" of many different sorts. And I like it. It's as I tweeted a few days back:

"Just put in a millwork order with http://austinlumber.com/. Somehow that feels special."

Why is it special? It feels more "human," I guess. The idea of individuals performing the act of creation. Apprenticeship. I can picture someone at Austin Lumber milling each board and focusing intently on what they're doing. Touched by human hands, rather than a Home Depot forklift.

Modern movements have been built around this principle. Slow food. Slow living. And of course slow travel. Which maybe is what I'm doing here, just a prolonged pit stop in the greater journey. Experimenting with place.

Wine
From the website
One place in Austin I visit a lot is called East End Wines. It's located in the little pocket of coolness that's blooming where Rosewood splits off from E. 11th (the shop is actually in a restored 1890s Victorian home right at that intersection, 1209 Rosewood Ave).

It's owned and managed by Matt Miller, who's worked hard to "bridge the gap between 'geeky wine-snob land' and everyday enthusiast." He's succeeded. My first time in the store, he brushed aside my anxious admissions that "I didn't know much" about wine and that "I probably couldn't afford any really good stuff." I've felt pretty comfortable there ever since. Plus, the purchase records he keeps for me have shown that my tastes trend towards "New World varietals" (makes sense, as I first really got into the stuff down in Mendoza).

The buyer at East End is Sam Hovland. I suspect he has a photographic memory, because he can quote vineyard stats and nose, flavor, and finish tones of most bottles in the shop. Even better, both he and Matt can listen to the characteristics I'm after (even if I just make them up on the spot) and pair me with a relevant bottle.

Prices seem reasonable. I usually spend $10-$15. My favorite so far has been the Postales Cabernet 2009 from Northern Patagonia. I'm also psyched to have gotten in on the "ground floor." The shop opened this past May.

They hold tastings at least once a week. Follow them on Twitter to find out when.

Coffee
Photo: sheeshoo

This is another acquired-taste beverage that I've found the purchasing of nearly as enjoyable as the drinking. That's thanks to Texas Coffee Traders, at 1400 E. 4th.

It took me awhile to stop in despite driving by often, because the warehouse-ish building gives off a strong wholesale vibe. But they do sell straight to consumers like me, and if you ask, they'll even give you a tour behind the scenes of their massive roasting operation, showing the differences between various beans and roasting times/temps.

TCT is committed to offering Fair Trade products from all over the world (though they also sell conventional beans). So far, I've sampled brew from Ethiopia, Bolivia, and Mexico. They also partner directly with the Fair Trade Cafe Monteverde project of the Santa Elena Cooperative in Costa Rica.

But the best part about shopping there is that, just like Matt and Sam and their wines, the folks at Texas Coffee Traders know their product. They can explain why Ethiopian beans tend to have a fruity, almost "gamy" taste, while those from neighboring Kenya are more traditionally flavored. And they let you "blind smell test" the beans before buying.

Prices are on the high end, from $11 to more than $15 per pound. This reflects both the fair prices they pay their suppliers and the generous salary/benefits packages their Austin-based workers get. Oh, and it smells really, really good in there.

Looking Local: New Blog Concept at WayWorded


Living room paint color. Japanese-inspired bamboo blinds and noren curtains. Bathroom tile demo. Table saw and topsoil purchases. These are the things in my head on a daily basis. I've tried, but I either can't or don't want to twist them to fit a "travel" perspective fit for writing about here.

So I've decided to start a new series of posts instead, profiling points of interest around my new home: Austin, TX. The master plan is to compile writeups like these into some sort of "travel guide" to the city (or at least the East Side, where I live) down the road. For now, I'll see how it goes posting individual reviews here at WayWorded.

First trial coming shortly.

Wednesday, August 25, 2010

Roadtrip Photos, the Last Batch

Been home for like 10 days, but I want to round out the trip with these puppies (for more on the journey, check out my Roadtrip Updates #1, #2, and #3, (#4 to be posted Thurs.)):

Crater Lake National Park, OR. Get there before 8:30AM and it's mirror-still.



Unexpected alpinism in Mt. Rainier National Park



Things get flat and scrubby dry around the Washington-Idaho border.
This was taken in Lewiston, ID, across the Snake-Clearwater confluence from Clarkston, WA.




Burned trees, Yellowstone National Park. These and many more were killed in the fires of 1988.
Which, coincidentally, was the last time I was at the park.




Lower Yellowstone Falls. Check the tiny peoples.



Grand Prismatic Spring, Yellowstone NP



Grand Tetons. Last noteworthy shot of the trip.

Thursday, July 29, 2010

8 California Pictures, Mostly Trees

Group dynamics, Monterey Bay Aquarium


Japanese Tea Garden, Golden Gate Park, San Francisco


Self portrait, Muir Woods


Conzelman Rd., North Bay


Tasting, Black Stallion Winery, Napa


Needles and light, Humboldt


Backlit, Prairie Creek


Posing with a titan, Jedediah Smith

Monday, July 19, 2010

Photos Out West

I've been on the road for a week+ now. For more details on that, click here. Below are 10 shots from the journey.

Sunset over Abiquiu Lake, NM


Monument Valley, UT


Navajo sandstone cliffs, Zion


Car and tent, Snow Canyon State Park, UT


Nevada's Highway 375--definitely a strange road


Big trees in Crane Flat Campground, Yosemite


Half Dome from behind, Yosemite


Cable route up Half Dome


Top of Half Dome


Vernal Falls, from Mist Trail, Yosemite

Monday, July 5, 2010

Heading West Again


One of the first posts I wrote for WayWorded was a reminiscence on my winter/spring 2007 roadtrip through the West, running from Colorado ski mountains, through Arches NP, over to Las Vegas, and then down past the Grand Canyon to Tuscon and home to Texas on I-10.

It's time for a take 2...only now it'll be all the way to the Pacific coast. A family wedding in San Francisco is providing the perfect excuse, and I'm building on the experience of my Interstate-less Eastern roadtrip to get there. State highways and rural roads from Austin to SF.

And I won't be done after the wedding, either. In late July, I plan to shoot north, through redwood country, up into Oregon, and possibly as far as Seattle and Vancouver before turning around and cutting home through ID, WY, and CO.

Some things I'm particularly psyched about:

* National park camping/hiking in Monument Valley, the Grand Canyon, Zion, and Yosemite. Maybe not all of those, but at least two.

* Driving American desolation, specifically central Nevada and eastern Oregon. Want to see what's there.

* Redwoods. I've been fixated on northern California's coastal rainforests since reading The Wild Trees. Now I get to explore in person.

* Meeting folks on the way. I put out a call for Matador members on my route to hit me up with their local travel secrets. Can't wait to map the Matador nation.